Q&A with Baking Master Francesco Di Salvo on Modern Panettone
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Time to read 4 min
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Panettone is a lesson in patience. For Sourdough Master Francesco di Salvo, it’s also a love letter to the craft. We’re thrilled to partner with Francesco to bring his modern panettone to our community this season—baked to order, naturally leavened with lievito madre, and with an explosive open crumb that pulls in glossy strands.
Francesco’s approach blends tradition and research. He nurtures his stiff starter meticulously and builds flavor across a two-day, multi-impasto schedule. Nothing is left to chance in the process. The result? An explosive, yet perfectly balanced panettone that’s sure to keep you craving for more—whether you choose Classic, Triple Chocolate, Pistachio & Almond, or Caramel Coffee & Chocolate.
What is "modern panettone"?
Traditional Panettone, showing a moderately closed, regular crumb
Modern / "Contemporary" Panettone, with an explosive, wild, lacy crumb
In recent years, a new wave of Pastry Chefs has developed a new take on Panettone. This product shares many similarities with the traditional Panettone that originated in Milano over 500 years ago. Both products rely on a well-balanced pasta madre (stiff starter), and build flavor through a long fermentation process across multiple dough mixing stages.
However, modern (or "contemporary") Panettone distinguishes itself from the traditional version across these key elements:
- Significantly more open crumb: this is the most obvious difference- while traditional Panettone has a fine, moderately closed crumb, the modern version chases extensibility and a wild, open, lacy crumb.
- Higher butter:yolk ratio: while traditional panettone uses both in similar quantities, the modern version uses significantly more butter, skewing the distribution of fats towards the butter. This helps achieve a more extensible dough.
- Creative and functional use of inclusions ("sospensioni"): the modern version often uses highly fluid chocolate that's rich in cocoa butter, instead of traditional baking chunks. These inclusions are hygroscopic (e.g. they attract water around them), and facilitate the creation of large alveoli in the crumb.
All these tweaks contribute to a different final product with a different mouthfeel. Buttery, less sweet (due to a fermentation pushed to the extreme) and with a beautiful, can't-get-enough-of chew to it.
Pastry Master Francesco di Salvo is one of the founding fathers of modern Panettone, which he names "Panettone Revolution" to call out the significant departure from the traditional milanese version.
Francesco is a baking technician and the founder of Impasto Revolution Baking School in Naples, Italy—where professionals and home bakers from around the world study Neapolitan and Roman pizza, sourdough, breads, viennoiserie, and (his most in‑demand class) Panettone Revolution. His work blends research‑driven technique with an artisan’s obsession to the finest details, always in service of flavor, digestibility, and his signature wild, open, translucent crumb.
Mini‑Interview with Francesco di Salvo
Edited for clarity and length.
Q: What’s your earliest memory of Panettone Revolution—and when did you know you’d make a modern version?
Francesco: Panettone Revolution was born five years ago (in 2020) after two years of testing—and many doughs thrown in the bin. I had a clear direction and focus from the beginning: bringing the open crumb and big volume to panettone.
Q: In one sentence, what defines Panettone Revolution versus the traditional Milanese style?
Francesco: An open, airy crumb and great height—a modern evolution of the Milanese tradition.
"This craft demands daily tenacity, patience, and attention to every detail. I see many home bakers with passion and focus achieve better results than busy pros- focus wins"
Q: What influenced your method—teachers, regions, bakeries?
Francesco: It's hard to pinpoint any specifically, I’m obsessive about the details—there are thousands of variables that matter—and I love to pick up something new every day.
Q: Who do you admire in the baking world, and why?
Francesco: I admire anyone with fire and passion in their eyes. But when I think of modern panettone, Roy Shvartzapel is a true reference.
Q: What did pizza and bread teach you that applies to panettone?
Francesco: Everything. Every dough and every moment in my journey helped me reach the Panettone Revolution I make today.
Q: The most common mistakes you see (home or pro) with panettone?
Francesco: Underestimating the process. This craft demands daily tenacity, patience, and attention to every detail. I see many home bakers with passion and focus achieve better results than busy pros—focus wins.
Q: Must‑have equipment—and what’s overhyped?
Francesco: Tools help— a good mixer and pH meter can make a difference—but the most important tool is always the baker's knowledge and ability to make decisions in the moment.
Q: Which flavors are you most proud of—and how do you balance innovation and tradition?
Francesco: Triple Chocolate is a crowd favorite—and mine too. You think “traditional,” and suddenly it becomes a modern experience. The balance is magical.
Q: What’s your favorite way to enjoy it?
Francesco: I always go for it plain. The crumb is so flavorful, I don’t like to overpower it with anything else.
Q: A flavor you’ve wanted to try but haven’t yet?
Francesco: Apple and cinnamon. It brings me back to my childhood. I’m exploring it for a future release.
Q: Raisins: love or hate?
Francesco: I didn’t love them at first, but I must admit they are growing on me.
Q: Breakfast, dessert, or both?
Francesco: I could eat it any time of the day, but nothing beats a slice first thing in the morning on a cold day.
Q: What's a secret ingredient people should respect more?
Francesco: Perseverance. That’s all.
Q: Your current favorite flavor?
Francesco: My favorite flavor is the one I'm yet to create.
Want to follow Francesco's work? you can find him on Instagram: @francesco.di.salvo_ where you can see videos of his classes, projects, and everything new he's working on.